When we buy gemstone jewelry, if you are careful observation then you can see many different settings. One setting that is both modern and vintage is the bezel setting. This setting is widely used, covering all kinds of jewelry. So what to look for when buying this bezel setting jewelry?
Table of Contents
What is bezel setting? What does bezel setting mean?
The bezel definition in jewelry is very simple. Bezel setting is a way of setting a gemstone in bezel in jewelry. The common bezel setting usually sets the gemstone in a metal with a certain depth and a sealed edge, similar to a container shape. This setting method can completely or partially surround the gemstone, provide a certain degree of protection and support for the gemstone, and prevent the gemstone from falling off. Bezel setting for jewelry making is very common and can be seen everywhere in the design of necklaces, bracelets and rings and so on.
Bezel Settings in Jewelry - How to Bezel Set A Stone
In the process of bezel setting gemstones, some special bezel setting tools are needed, including calipers (used to accurately measure the size of gemstones), metal bars (as the material of bezel rings), needle-nosed pliers or bending pliers (used to bend the metal bars into the shape of gemstones), welding tools (welding torches, welding wires and flux, used to weld the seams of metal bars together), gold pushers and blueing tools (used to push the bezel rings to fix the gemstones), files and sandpaper (used to polish the welding points and remove rough edges), and polishing tools (used to polish the entire work to ensure its smoothness and beauty). Together, these tools ensure the smoothness of the bezel setting process and ensure that the gemstones are firmly set and the visual effect is elegant.
While traditional bezels usually require soldering to join the metal strips, if you want to know how to make a bezel without soldering there are some methods for those who don’t have soldering equipment or don’t want to do soldering. You can use a pre-made bezel frame, or you can use a cold join technique (mechanically joining metals together without soldering). Or you can use adhesives, which, while not as strong as traditional bezels, can be used to secure metal strips around gemstones, especially for soft gemstones or jewelry that is not often worn.

Types of Bezel Settings
Bezel settings come in various types, each with distinct features. The full bezel setting completely encircles the gemstone, providing maximum protection but covering more of the stone’s surface. The partial bezel setting secures only part of the gemstone, offering a balance between protection and brilliance by exposing more of the gem. The flush bezel setting embeds the stone into the metal for a sleek, low-profile look, ideal for durability. The tension bezel setting creates the illusion of a floating stone while allowing more light to enhance brilliance. The inverted bezel setting displays the gemstone upside down, emphasizing bold shapes and artistic design. Lastly, the scalloped bezel setting features decorative edges, adding a vintage or ornate touch while maintaining security.
Key Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bezel Setting
Thickness of the Bezel
Of course, a thicker bezel can provide greater durability and protection for gemstones, but it may also make the bezel jewelry look bulkier and lose the original clarity, beauty and brilliance of the gemstones. A thin bezel setting can make the gemstones look lighter and allow more light to be reflected onto the surface of the gemstones, but the protection of the gemstones by thin bezels is relatively weaker. Therefore, the thickness of the bezel is very important when choosing bezel setting jewelry.
Height of the Bezel
The height of the bezel is also very important. A bezel that is too high will block the light that reaches the gemstone, reducing its brilliance. A bezel that is too short will make the gemstone appear too exposed, which is a bit abrupt. Generally, the height of the bezel is set at the point where the surface of the gemstone begins to bend, so that the protruding part of the gemstone can be set outside the height of the bezel.
Metal Types
For a classic look, sterling silver bezel settings are popular due to their affordability and elegance. Sterling silver bezel is also easy to work with, making it a favorite choice for bezel settings. If you’re looking for a more luxurious option, gold bezel wire adds a touch of sophistication and timeless appeal. Alternatively, copper bezel wire offers a warm, earthy tone and is often used in artistic or bohemian-style pieces. Additionally, bezel wire comes in various metals, including sterling silver bezel and gold, allowing you to choose based on your aesthetic preferences and the gemstone’s compatibility with the metal.

Durability and Security of Bezel Settings
Many people are concerned about “are bezel settings secure?” The answer is yes. Bezel settings completely or partially surround gemstones with a circle of metal rings, providing extremely high protection, especially suitable for jewelry worn daily. Compared with other setting methods such as claw settings, bezel settings can more effectively prevent gemstones from falling off or being damaged, especially for softer or fragile gemstones such as emeralds or opals.
Pros and Cons of Bezel Settings
The biggest advantage of bezel setting is that it can provide maximum protection and security for gemstones, and enhance the durability of bezel gemstones. Secondly, the modern and simple style of bezel setting is also a highlight. However, the disadvantages of bezel setting are also obvious. The metal of the bezel blocks part of the gemstone surface, making the gemstone look less shiny.
Tips for Selecting the Perfect Bezel Setting Ring
When choosing a bezel setting, such as those bezel settings for diamond rings, pay attention to connecting the style of the ring with your lifestyle. In addition, you should also ensure balance between protection, stone visibility, and overall design to maximize the charm of bezel jewelry.
Conclusion
Bezel on a ring is the mainstream form of bezel setting, mainly in bezel engagement ring settings. Other bezel for necklace and bezel for bracelet are also very popular. If you are interested in bezel setting, you may want to check out the various ring styles at Amanda, which is a professional jeweler that supports customization.
FAQs About Bezel Setting
Does a bezel setting reduce a stone’s brilliance?
Yes, a bezel setting can reduce some light from entering the gemstone, potentially diminishing its brilliance, especially with diamonds. However, well-crafted bezel settings can minimize this effect while still providing a secure hold.
What are the common types of bezel gemstone?
Common types of bezel-set gemstones include diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and opals. These gemstones are often used in bezel settings.
What is the difference between a full bezel and a partial bezel?
A full bezel completely encircles the stone, while a partial bezel leaves parts of the stone’s sides exposed. A full bezel offers more protection, whereas a partial bezel provides more visibility of the gemstone.
Bezel setting vs prong setting, which is more expensive?
A bezel setting requires more metal and craftsmanship, making it generally more expensive than a prong setting. However, the increased security and durability may be worth the investment.
What setting makes diamonds look bigger?
A bezel setting, which surrounds the central diamond made in white gold or platinum, often makes the central diamond appear larger.