Enamel jewelry is a popular jewelry style in modern times. It continues the traditional craftsmanship and has bright and rich colors. It has become one of the popular jewelry types in modern times. What is enamel jewelry? How to enamel jewelry? What is its history? Read the article to find the answer.

Table of Contents

What is enamel jewelry?

Enamel jewelry is usually based on metals such as gold, silver, and copper. Glazes made of fine glass powder, metal oxides, and other chemical ingredients are applied or carved into the metal surface or interior, and then fired at high temperatures to form a hard and shiny surface. These gold and copper enamel jewelry are characterized by bright colors, diverse colors, and strong durability. They are used in many enamel bands and rings jewelry, as well as some enamel permanent jewelry, and are therefore loved by many people.

History of Enamel Jewelry

Enamel technology first appeared in ancient Egypt, and then gradually spread to ancient Greece, China, and medieval Europe. Especially among the royal families and nobles in China and Europe, enamel jewelry is often used as a symbol of luxury and status. With the continuous development of technology, enamel for jewelry has gradually become a combination of craftsmanship and art, and is deeply loved by collectors and fashion lovers.

How Enamel Jewelry is Made

  1. Design Pattern Transfer: The designer creates a pattern based on the concept and transfers it to the target material, usually metal, but also ceramic, glass, or wood, using hand drawing, carving, or laser engraving.
  2. Filigree or Carving (if necessary): Depending on the design, metal wire may be welded onto the surface to form pattern boundaries (filigree), or grooves/slots may be carved for relief enamels like Champlevé.
  3. Select and Prepare Enamel Glaze: Enamel colors and textures are selected based on the design, with three types of enamel: transparent, translucent, and opaque.
  4. Filling Enamel: The enamel is carefully filled into the gaps or grooves on the metal surface. For cloisonné, it is filled in areas separated by metal wire, while for relief enamel, it is filled into carved grooves.
  5. First Firing: The enamel-filled piece is placed in a high-temperature kiln (800°C-900°C), where the enamel melts and bonds with the metal to form a smooth surface.
  6. Cooling and Finishing: After firing, the piece cools naturally. Any imperfections, such as uneven bubbles, are smoothed, and excess enamel is removed to ensure a uniform surface.
  7. Second Firing (if necessary): A second firing may be required to stabilize the enamel layer and enhance color vibrancy and gloss.
  8. Polishing and Buffing: Minor surface flaws are polished with fine sandpaper, and further buffing improves the surface shine, making the enamel smoother and more lustrous.
  9. Assembly and Setting: If the design includes additional gems or decorative elements, they are set into the enamel jewelry after the enamel process is complete, enhancing the piece’s overall visual appeal and value.

Different Types of Enamel Jewelry Techniques

Common enamel jewelry techniques can be divided into six categories, each of which has its own characteristics and different audiences.

  • Cloisonne enamel jewelry: This is one of the most classic enamel techniques. It is made by wrapping thin metal wires around the surface of the jewelry into different patterns, then filling the lines with enamel glaze, and finally firing the metal wire and enamel together. Cloisonne enamel has a distinct metal line outline, suitable for making complex and delicate patterns, and is widely used in jewelry, utensils, decorations, etc.
  • Champlevé enamel jewelry: Relief enamel is made by carving grooves on the metal surface and then filling these grooves with enamel glaze to create a layered effect. After firing, the enamel and metal surface will be flush. This technique is suitable for presenting complex textures and details, and is mostly used in jewelry, decorative metal crafts, etc.
  • Plique-à-Jour enamel jewelry: This is a transparent enamel technique, but the color is not only white but also various colors. This technique does not use a base plate in the metal frame, but makes the enamel glaze as transparent as glass, creating a stained glass effect. The light refracts through the enamel layer, showing a unique visual effect. This jewelry craft is often used to create high-end jewelry with a modern and artistic feel.
  • Transparent enamel jewelry: This jewelry technique allows the underlying metal pattern or carving to be more visible, creating a translucent effect. This technique has a strong gloss, and can show unique layers and depth in different light, showing very rich colors. This vintage and antique enamel jewelry has a strong color effect and simple process, suitable for all kinds of jewelry and decorations. Unlike Plique-à-Jour, Transparent Enamel is closer to a smooth transparent glaze, and the metal details underneath are clearly visible, but it lacks the full light-transmitting effect of Plique-à-Jour.
  • Basse-Taille enamel jewelry: This jewelry craft is to shallowly carve or engrave on the metal surface, then fill the engraved part with enamel glaze, and then burn it to make the surface smooth, creating a sense of layering and depth. This enamel craft with a deep and delicate decorative effect is mainly used in high-end enamel jewelry and art decorations.
  • Painted Enamel jewelry: Enamel glaze is applied directly to the metal surface, and the pattern is hand-painted, and then it is fired and cured. This process allows designers to create delicate and unique hand-painted art effects. It is often used for personalized jewelry, souvenirs or art decorations.
enamel jewelry

Benefits of Enamel Jewelry

Enameling jewellery offers a unique blend of artistry and durability, making it a standout choice for modern accessories. The best enamel jewelry features vibrant colors and smooth finishes that are resistant to fading, ensuring that the piece retains its beauty over time. Black and blue enamel jewelry are particularly popular for their bold, timeless appeal. The deep, rich tones of these colors create a sophisticated look, whether in casual or formal settings. With its versatility, enamel jewelry can complement any style while offering long-lasting quality, making it a worthwhile addition to any collection.

How to Care for Enamel Jewelry

To care for enamel jewelry, especially cold enamel for jewelry, it’s essential to avoid exposing it to harsh chemicals, perfumes, or excessive moisture. Clean the jewelry with a soft, damp cloth to remove dirt and oils, and gently dry it with a soft towel. Avoid using abrasive materials that can scratch the enamel surface. When not in use, store your enamel jewelry in a soft pouch or jewelry box to prevent it from being scratched or damaged. Keeping it away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures helps maintain the vibrancy and longevity of the enamel.

Conclusion

Enamel jewelry is extremely durable and colorful, which is why it has become a popular retro style jewelry in modern times. When buying enamel jewelry, try to go to a certified jewelry merchant to avoid buying jewelry with poor craftsmanship and easy to damage.

FAQs About Enamel Jewelry

Enamel in jewelry refers to a glass-based material fused to metal at high temperatures to create a smooth, colorful, and durable surface. It is used to add intricate designs and vibrant colors to metal jewelry pieces like rings, necklaces, and earrings. To enamel jewelry, a metal base is prepared by cleaning and sometimes carving grooves or boundaries. Enamel powder or liquid is applied to the metal, then fired in a kiln at high temperatures (usually 800-900°C) to melt and fuse the enamel with the metal. The piece is then cooled, polished, and sometimes refired for a glossy finish.

Enamel jewelry is highly durable and resistant to tarnishing, as long as it is properly cared for. While the enamel itself won’t tarnish, the metal underneath may oxidize over time, depending on the metal used. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals and moisture to prolong its lifespan.

To clean vintage enamel jewelry, use a soft, damp cloth to gently wipe away dirt and oils. Avoid abrasive cleaners or brushes that may scratch the enamel. For stubborn dirt, use a mild soap solution and dry with a soft cloth. Store in a safe, dry place to avoid damage.